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Why 3D Printing?

Banner Yoster

This is Hila, the woman behind Yoster Jewelry brand

 

Hila, founder of Yoster jewelry
Hila, founder of Yoster jewelry

 

Hila works with two main suppliers, the caster and the plater, and both are small family run businesses. The 3D printing is a growing part of the jewelry industry and this combination of new and old is a necessary part of the development of the craft. With this process you also leave no excess material behind, and it can save a lot of waste in the production process.

We had a talk with Hila about the way she’s been trying to implement 3D printing in her production process early on.

3D printing as production process

 

JF: Hi Hila, nice to have this talk with you! So, we are wondering, how does 3D printing of jewelry work? 
Hila: In the past few years, the jewelry industry has been transformed with the introduction of 3D-printers, which are capable of producing easily-castable, high detail parts. “3D printing jewelry” doesn’t mean directly producing end-use pieces of jewelry. In other words, jewelers don’t 3D print golden rings. Instead, we 3D print highly detailed wax models of the desired rings, which are later used to make molds, like the traditional of the disappearing wax technique.

And all Yoster’s pieces finishes are done by hand, so the evolution of the jewelry is quite interesting. Backwards form tech – to handmade! :)

the Yoster studio
the Yoster studio

 

JF: How did you come up with the idea to use this type of process?
Hila: I studied 3D print during my BA degree in jewelry design. We studied the software for 2 semesters, and in the following semesters we had some projects that we must produce by 3d printing. To be honest I was one of the worst in my class, I am not “a computer person” and this software is very complicated for me, though the benefit of it is amazing! Actually my ‘3D climber earring’ is the result of a class project in my 3th year degree (six years ago) –  and it is the first 3d printing jewelry that I ever did, it was such a success and it goes with me ever since  (it is funny I named it after it- but it is a reminder for when it all started)

 

JF: That’s so cool! How does it affect your collections to use this process? 
Hila: Yoster’s designs are accompanied by a sense of timeless objects that was found in nature which are delicately treated to make fine jewelry. When I start to work on a new model, I start by sculpting with wax, when I get to a point where i see i don’t get the result i wish, not precise enough or i see it is going to be very heavy, or just that I don’t have enough time to develop it, so I understand it should be by 3d printing. before i go to 3d printing i must have a wax model (to gain an appreciation of a form and structure), drawing and images of inspiration reference. So the result of it is by combination all of it. As i mentioned before that working on that software is not easy for me, so I have an amazing engineer digital technology modeler who I work with to help me build my designs. We sit together with the wax and drawing and building it up together.

3D printing development process of the Chain earrings
3D printing development process of the Chain earrings

JF: What is the impact you have when you choose to use this type of process for products? 
Hila: By 3d i have control on everything (weight, dimensions etc..) it allows me to express my creativity and imagination without limits.

I can see the exact result without spending 1gr of materiel. Yes, of course, it happened to me that after I printed I was not satisfied and then I print again, but as I have more and more experience with 3d it happens less.

In addition, manually crafting jewelry molds can be quite expensive, whereas 3D Printing is a quick manufacturing technique that also allows you to easily change the design of the digital model. Working with a 3D printed piece versus a wax piece takes a quarter of the time. It’s not just the time I saved, it is what else I’m able to do with that time that has been the biggest savings.

Finished product! :)
Finished product! :)

Thank you Hila! 

Check out all jewelry from Yoster here!

 

 

“Yoster is named after my parents, Yosi and Ester. In their short lives they’ve taught me the two most important skills for an artist, how to touch and how to believe”

Hila

 

 

 

 

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The Story of Hyrv

Hyrv banner

 

Tallin-based jewelry brand, collecting its inspiration from nature’s pure lines and having a contemporary fresh take on jewel crafting.

 

The start

JF started working with Hyrv spring 2018. We met in our common love for simple, elegant and classic design that lives on forever (and is even handed down through generations), and of course in our common denominator; sustainable and well thought through processes.

Since then we’ve seen Hyrv grow and gaining new followers. They are consistent in the way they build their universe, and we couldn’t be more proud to work with designer Kateryna and her team.

 

Design process

All of Hyrvs collections are made in their studio in Harjumaa, Tallin, Estonia. The team uses a combination of handcraft and 3D printing, but also do customization and special customer-collaborations.

The workshop has 3 workers and some part time freelancers when orders are larger. The facility holds a high standard when it comes to both worker and environmental guidelines.

Hyrv only use recycled silver, natural stones and other natural materials in their collections. For polishing or matting silver surface they use walnut shells or other organic fillers. Artisanal methods are implemented in every collection, and they use non-toxic and low energy sources. E.g. the use of 3D printing increase efficiency, use less energy than other methods, and is a significant way of reducing unwanted waste.

Hyrv decided early on to not use any synthetic inserts, packaging or exhibition displays (for storefronts) that could be harmful to the environment. They only use natural and recycled material for their displays and packaging, like the 3D printed wood plates and the recycled cotton and paper bags and boxes. It is both 100% recycled and recyclable.

 

Overview of ass products from Hyrv Antler and Coco collection

 

 


Founder and designer

The driving force behind Hyrv is founder and Creative Director Kateryna Pishon. She was born in Tallinn and got her BA in Jewellery Design from Estonian Academy of Arts. After polishing her skills at Antwerp Koninklijke Academie voor Schone Kunsten (The Royal Academy of Fine Arts Antwerp), she worked in a New York’s jewelry company. This combination of experiences gave her the base she needed to start up Hyrv in 2012. She then felt confident that the time was right to experiment with a variety of ideas, materials, processes and techniques.

 

 

“I design for modern, young people with a varied day. I want to design jewelry pieces that are chic and easy to wear, but will also make you stand out.”

Kateryna Pishon

 

See full collection from Hyrv here