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Curated by: Charlotte Dos Santos

 

We invited the talented musician, soul- and jazz-singer and songwriter Charlotte Dos Santos to share her thoughts on life, art and fashion. And of course to curate her JF favorites and share her best style tips.

We admire Charlotte, both for the music she makes, her style and personality, and as an empathic, emotional, stubborn and wandering human. She´s a traveller, with her heart placed in different countries and continents at all time, but she is especially connected to her Brazilian heritage.

In fashion Charlotte is inspired by unconventional shapes and movement. She describes her style like a mood ring, which continuously changes color based on her mood. But – she hates being cold and loves comfort, and since she’s born the sign of the pisces – she’s addicted to comfortable shoes.

Sweater: BITE Studios
Earrings: Yoster

JF: Hi Charlotte! Where are you based these days? 
Charlotte: Right now I´m based in Oslo, but I travel a lot between Oslo and London where I play at festivals, do shoots and press that leads up to my new release. I´ve also been very excited to share the news that I have just signed with a new record company!

JF: How do your music come to life, and whats important to you when you make music? 
Charlotte: First of all I need new experiences and impulses, to travel and grow so I don´t stagnate. My creative process is very spontaneous, but mostly I can feel something coming on and just know when I need to make something. I´m also very emotional, and if I invest my feelings enough in something, it can become food for my music. Other than that I just need calm and quiet, my usual writing equipment and a keyboard.

Dress: BITE Studios

JF: Who do you want to be for the people who listen to your music?
Charlotte: I think I would like people to create their own image of me, as who they need me to be for them. The most important part is that I can be me for me. It took some time for me to figure out that it was totally ok to be who I am. Now I never compromise when it comes to that.

JF: What is important to you when it comes to fashion? 
Charlotte: I get fascinated by shapes and movement. I find unconventional shapes really interesting. Shapes that challenges what we´re used to and what looks “right”. Other than that it´s of course important that it is flattering on the person wearing it. I´ve also noticed that my style and taste in fashion changes with me as I grow as a person and as a musician. Almost like a mood ring that changes colors!

I also love finding new, small and independent designers. The thought that someone has been working on what I´m wearing as a school project once is so unique and fun! I´m also looking forward to the day I can wear Haute Couture, of course, but that´s still in the future.

Coat/showpiece: Eline Dragesund

JF: Whats the first thing you notice about a person?
Charlotte: Aura, radiance and energy. They say that the eyes are the window to the soul. I feel they always tells someones story.

JF: How do you plan when getting dressed? 
Charlotte: I´m one of those people that always puts comfort first. I hate being cold! I would never compromise on that and will chose being warm above all else. When I dress for my stage performances I have to think about movement, how I can breathe and move as relaxed and free as possible

JF: Do you have one garment in your wardrobe that always just works, regardless of weather or mood? 
Charlotte: No, I mostly dress by mood. Also I love unique items so my wardrobe mostly consists of vintage, second hand or garments from independent Norwegian designers. When it comes to vintage-shopping it mostly comes down to treasure hunting or luck, more than the functionality of each item. Vintage-pieces are rarely very versatile. Sometimes it fits perfectly, but is wrong for the weather. And as we all know the Norwegian weather is so changing and can go from freezing cold to really hot. Also I´m not the kind of person with only black clothing in my wardrobe.

Coat: Maja Stabel
Coat: Maja Stabel

JF: What do you want to say about the items you picked from JF Curated?
Charlotte: Comfort is a key factor for me and will always be a starting point for what I´m wearing. I often fall for pieces that I can wear for many different occasions; at a party, at an event and also in my day to day life. I also love to mix things up in my own way, to give it a personal and unique expression which is only mine. These pieces from JF Curated were perfect for that.

The silk dress from BITE just stood out and caught my eye. The two-piece with a jacket and a skirt from Ingrid Pettersson gave me that perfect Clueless, 90s-vibe, which I love. You feel sophisticated and well-dressed, and also it´s made in wool! Warm! Altså i love two-pieces because they are so versatile and  can be used both together and apart. I chose the coat from Maja Stabel because of the amazing color, shape and material, an the fact that it was really flattering on me. Now when fall aproaches, a coat like this could save the entire season for someone like me who gets cold easily.

Jacket: Ingrid Pettersson
Skirt: Ingrid Pettersson

JF: What are your thoughts on fashion and a sustainable lifestyle? 
Charlotte: As mentioned I own mostly vintage or second hand. Much because I try to be a conscious shopper but also because I love unique stuff. I find fast-fashion very difficult, especially how more high end brands can have the same poor production and quality as the fast fashion chains. So I try to do my best, but it´s of course really hard. I find quality really important, and I´m so happy I found JF Curated and learned to see all the possibilities. To actually see a change happening now in the fashion industry makes me so inspired.

JF: Can you mention three of your favorite clothing items? 
Charlotte: I´m so boring like that! I´ve never had a favorite song or favorite food. I´m either really indecisive or it´s just that I like so many different things. But if I have to mention something it must be my jewelry, I will always love and treasure my collection. As well as comfortable shoes.

Coat: BITE Studios
Shirt/dress: Eline Dragesund
Pants: Veja Kocarik

JF: What do you dream about?
Charlotte: As a child I dreamed about growing up to be a musician or a pop-star. Very on point. Nowadays I just dream about being able to keep working with my music. Other than that I have smaller dreams and goals, like buying my own house og an apartment. And of course I have a dream that I´ll never get to comfortable with my own situation, that I can keep that fire in me that will make me try to do good things and try to make a change in this world.

JF: To you have a cause that is especially close to your heart? 
Charlotte: I´m half Brazilian and half Norwegian, and I feel very strongly connected to Brazil and the Amazonas. My great grandmother was indigenous, something I think has left traces in me as well. The wellbeing of nature, the rainforest, tribes and different indigenous people is definitely something close to my heart. Other than that I care about people, and I hope that when I feel more grounded in life I can do something to help others, maybe by teaching.

Dress: BITE Studios Necklace: Yoster

JF: If you could change one thing about the world, what would that be? 
Charlotte: Og my god, there´s so many things! I would definitely wish for empathy to be one of the most distinct feelings in us humans. I think lack of empathy is the root to most of the problems we face in our society today.

JF: What do you think the world could do without?  
Charlotte: Trump, Bolsonaro, money. I think a trading system would be nice. Also, mosquitos?

JF: When are you at your best? 
Charlotte: When I´m in Brazil or in a new, warm place. When I´m on stage, or when I´m with family and loved ones. I love the little moment and connections between people, between the old and the young. Especially when you don´t see each other as often. I´m totally dependent on family, and wan´t to keep everyone together and connected.

Sadly it´s been a while since my last visit in Brazil. My new album is sort of a homage to my Brazilian and Norwegian heritage, so I´m planning to make a music video to one of my songs (where I sing in Portuguese) in Brazil.

Dress: BITE Studios
Earrings: Yoster

JF: Can you name three of your own favorite songs? 
Charlotte: I´m totally obsessed with the songs on the new album – the newest single that will be out in October is called “Harvest Time” and is my current favorite. Other than that the songs “Move On” og “Red Clay” from my album  “Cleo” are favorites!

JF: Where do you like to go out in Oslo at night? 
Charlotte: Fuglen, OsloVelo and Torggata Botaniske.

JF: What´s your latest Google-search? 
Charlotte: The Eihei-Ji temple I visited in Japan last spring. I´m currently working on something really exciting in Japan, and I´m so excited to share it soon!

Sweater: BITE Studios
Earrings: Yoster

JF: Which words do you think you use the most? 
Charlotte: “I love you”, “I need coffee”, “production value”, “when´s the deadline”, “amazing”.

JF: Whats your guilty pleasure?
Charlotte: Ru Pauls Drag Race. Not guilty though!

JF: What makes you angry?
Charlotte: Ignorance, toxic masculinity, missing empathy, racism, megalomani (hi Trump and Kanye West).

JF: What makes you happy?
Charlotte: Love, thoughtfulness, music, animals, nature, wine, the sea, food, dancing, community.

Thank you, Charlotte!

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Why Roll End Fabric?

Bo Carter banner

This is Bo, she is head designer and founder behind her namesake label Bo Carter

Designer Bo Carter
Designer Bo Carter

 

We sat down with her to talk about the way they produce in the UK, England, and also about how they use one particular raw material.  The fashion industry is renowned for the excess it creates. To combat this Bo Carter buy unused ‘roll end’ fabric from larger fashion brands in order to consume excess within the fashion industry before it becomes waste.

Roll End Fabric as raw material

JF: Hi Bo, we are curious to know, what is Roll End Fabric?
Bo: Roll end Fabric is larger or smaller leftovers from the conventional fashion industry, considered to be waste, as they are from previous collections.

 

Easy to wear printed champagne coloured and white linen summer dress
Easy to wear printed champagne coloured and white linen summer dress

JF: How did you come up with the idea to use this type of material?
Bo: We don’t follow trends and we love taking advantage of fabric that would go to waste only because they are not ‘in the season’ anymore. That’s just pointless.

 

JF: That’s so true, and it is all about the context, isn’t it? So how do you choose your roll, and how does it affect your collections?
Bo: We ‘rescue’ whatever is available at any particular time. We don’t always use them straight away, and sometimes they are saved for years before they fit into our collection.  But they are always used, and nothing is thrown away.

 

Bo Carter studio working desk
Bo Carter studio working desk

JF: So, what is the impact you have when you choose to use this type of source for a product? 
Bo: We save fully usable fabric from gong to landfills, and by that making a positive difference to our planet.

 

Bo Carter uses whatever fabric is left on the rolls until it runs out. Consequently, they typically make less than 30 pieces in each style. Due to this limited production method their roll end garments are very exclusive and can’t be repeated. Every piece is produced locally in the UK. Bo Carter is morally opposed to sweatshop manufacturing and the exploitation of cheap labour. Instead they commit to supporting local businesses and helping to rebuild the UK textile industry. By keeping production close to home, they can ensure high ethical standards are upheld throughout the supply chain and keep their carbon footprint as small as possible.

 

Easy to wear linen summer top in pink
Easy to wear linen summer top in pink

Thank you Bo!!

See all products from Bo Carter here!

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Why Waste Reducing Pattern Construction?

Banner Elsien

This is Elsien Gringhuis and her team

Elsien and her team in the Netherlands, from top left with clock: Jasmine, Annemieke, One Room, Elsien and Nina
Elsien and her team in the Netherlands, from top left with clock: Jasmine, Annemieke, One Room, Elsien and Nina

We sat down to talk with Elsien about the team’s journey, and to talk a bit about the way she does her pattern construction.

 

Reducing waste in Pattern Construction

 

JF: Hi Elsien, we are wondering, what is a waste reducing pattern construction?
Elsien: It is a way of placing the pattern, so that you take the width of the garment and the placement of the pieces into acount, to make as little waste as possible. It can also start at the point where you plan the construction of your garment, and in some cases one can plan a product so that there are no waste alltogether.

 

JF: How did you come up with the idea to use this method in your production?
Elsien: From the start of my brand I made a serie of garments where each pattern exist from only a square or rectangle, using the whole fabric width. I used it literally as a square, like for example the square top. But I also draped with it so it was not directly recognizable as a square or rectangle. Furthermore I made a series for the Woolmark prize, I was nominated for in 2014, and made a line only existing from the most elementary shapes, like a circle, triangle and square. All these patterns fitted into each other so there was only a minimum of waste.

 

The studio and the studio dog, Freya
The studio and the studio dog, Freya (she’s good at posing)

 

JF: How does it affect your collections to choose this way of designing?
Elsien: In total I have made two series with  zero waste principle, and for me it is really about the puzzle, how can I make a fashionable collection without any waste. It made me very aware of how much fabrics got lost with the usual cutting.

When I started to work on this zero waste collection, I also wanted to reduce as many seams as possible because in the industry every seam, every handling costs energy and of course money.  I also wanted to make this part as efficient as possible.

But sometimes  less seams have consequences that it takes more fabric! So then the puzzle starts again. I work with my patterns to reduce waste, but only work zero waste for limited styles.  And (almost) no seams is not always a solution for a zero waste pattern.

 

Blue and white striped skirt with rolled up sleeves in organic cotton
Blue and white striped skirt with rolled up sleeves in organic cotton

 

 

JF:  What is the impact you have when you choose to work this way with products?
Elsien: The consequence is that I design very consciously. I choose every design, every fabric, every handling very carefully and always with a strong focus on sustainability. Because we make everything ourselves and only local, I have a very strong connection with the clothes. Nothing leaves the studio without going trough my hands.

We are very keen on our environmental impact, so that’s why we buy our fabrics mainly in Europe. And always use every single piece of fabric, also the little pieces.  And because we do not work with seasonal collections, we can use up the fabric until it’s out.  And we work extremely efficient so there is almost not waste :)

 

Leightweight supersoft summer kaftan dress in white Tencel
Lightweight supersoft summer kaftan dress in white Tencel

 

Se full collection from Elsien  here!

 

More about Elsien and her studio

 

 

Elsiens focus on highly innovative patterns, reduces the waste to the max. Another great factor with the way Elsien and her team work, is that instead of building seasonal collections, they are building chapters in books. These chapters are meant to fit together, and also books have a line of cohesiveness to tight then together. Every piece is also made on demand, not before you order it,  which saves the environment from overproduction.

 

By producing locally in the Netherlands with skilled tailors at work, Elsien support and create work for a craftsmanship that in many ways is about to be forgotten. To choose this way of producing, gives economic growth to her community and all tailors get fair pay for their work.

 

“There are many campaigns regarding “responsible clothing”. And I think that is a good thing! Unfortunately little has changed yet. I still read too often that as soon as employees within third world production companies stand up to rebel against the bad working conditions, they are violently stopped by the entrepreneurs and they are dismissed or are ruthlessly put back to work. I would like to see, that workers receive a humane living wage, normal work hours, a safe work environment and no discrimination and sexual harassment against women. I am proud to work for Elsien and to be a part of her mission and her commitment to change the (fashion) world and to make durable sustainable clothing.

Enjoy the clothes you wear! It is made for you with love!”

Janet, Tailor Production in Elsien Gringhuis Studio

 

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Why merino and recycled Cashmere?

Banner Lana Serena

This is Anna, the woman behind Lana Serena

Anna Serena, founder of Lana Serena
Anna Serena, founder of Lana Serena

 

We sat down with Anna to get to know more about the way they’ve built their brand.

 

Merino wool and recycled cashmere as raw material

 

JF: Hi Anna, we are wondering, what is Recycled Cashmere?
Anna: Recycled cashmere is a precious and earth-friendly yarn that is regenerated from industrial surplus of 100% pure cashmere. It is carefully selected and then mechanically transformed into woollen fibers. Then these fibers are blended with pure premium merino wool in a ratio 95-5 and spun again into this premium recycled cashmere.

I fell in love with the wonderful recycled cashmere at once. The way it close the loop is great.  On average four goats are needed to be sheared to get enough yarn to knit one cashmere sweater.  That makes this fiber not only precious but difficult to sustain on a large scale. So choosing recycled cashmere feels the most respectful option towards the planet.

15% local Spanish merino wool mixed with 85% recycled cashmere, made into a beautiful high quality natural off white relaxed sweater
15% local Spanish merino wool mixed with 85% recycled cashmere, made into a beautiful high quality natural off white relaxed sweater

 

JF: That’s brilliant use of surplus material! So how did you come up with the idea to use this type of material
Anna: When we discovered that qualified Italian mill that developed a wonderful and pure recycled cashmere (95% recycled cashmere and 5% merino wool), things fell into place.  We wanted to include it in a couple of our designs to get that exciting mix of tradition and innovation.

Cashmere is one of the world’s finest fiber. The demand of cashmere has not stopped growing, and grasslands of Mongolia (which exports one third of the world cashmere) are suffering from desertification because an overpopulation of goats. That’s why it is important to find new solutions.

 

50% local Spanish merino wool mixed with 50% recycled cashmere, made into a beautiful high quality natural off white cable knit sweater
50% local Spanish merino wool mixed with 50% recycled cashmere, made into a beautiful high quality natural off white cable knit sweater

JF: What about your other raw material, the merino wool, how do you work with the shepherds to collect it?
Anna: At Lana Serena we buy all the merino wool yarn through the initiative Transhumance by Made in Slow. In Spain, transhumance is a centenarian practice that consists on moving the flock of sheep from the valley to the adjacent mountains in order to feed them with fresh grass the whole year around. This initiative is important because it agrees with local shepherds, and gives them a fair price for the wool. Thus encouraging them to keep this tradition. In Spring they collect the wool (fleece) and the whole process of the yarn is also made in Spain.

 

Quality bib made of 100% local Spanish merino wool knitted outside of Barcelona
Quality bib made of 100% local Spanish merino wool knitted outside of Barcelona

We wants to support shepherds and their flock of sheep and we also want to contribute to the preservation of Spanish rural traditions and cultural heritage. The goal of  the initiative Transhumance by Made in Slow is to make sure the shepherds can make a living off the wool and by that encourage more shepherds to recover that centenarian practice. Traceability and transparency is crucial in our collaboration.

 

JF: What is the impact you have when you choose to use this type of  source for a product?
Anna: It was the summer of 2015 when I discovered that some Spanish shepherds were discarding the wool of their merino sheep. I researched on Spanish wool heritage and wool happened to be the purpose to start this project. By sourcing Spanish merino wool from transhumant flock of sheep, we are contributing to the protection of our cultural and natural heritage.

Sheep play an important role as part of the countryside’s biodiversity and also contribute to clean the underwood and thus preventing wildfires. By shearing, cleaning, spinning and knitting in Spain, we are helping to preserve the old professions associated to the wool trade and reduce the CO2 impact of the whole process.

 

Manuel's sheep
Shepherd Manuel with his sheep. Picture: Made in Slow


Thank you Anna! 

 

See all of Lana Serena’s pieces here!

Handcrafted 100% merino wool chunky knits

Dive deeper into this story

Transhumance of sheep

The remaining shepherds practicing transhumance, comes from families who have been this for generations.

Transhumance means to follow the old traditions of seasonal migration of livestock, and the people who tend them, between lowlands and the adjacent mountains. Transhumance in Spain has been a key factor for the merino wool quality. The reason is that sheep who roam get better quality of grass and that turns into a better quality of their fleece.

Made in Slow is a platform, founded and directed by Alberto Díaz, whose mission is to preserve and recuperate Spanish cultural heritage at risk of disappearance.

Merino sheep grazing in Extremadura. Picture courtesy of Made in Slow.
Merino sheep grazing in Extremadura. Picture: Made in Slow.

Supporting Traditional Skills

Lana Serena’s merino wool comes from transhumant merino flock of sheep from Castilla y León and Extremadura (Spain). They migrate twice per year with their shepherds from the grasslands to the summer pastures up in the mountains using the centenarian Cañadas Reales or Royal routes.

 

“Lana Serena does not follow trends and seasons. We conceive our designs as timeless, and our quality is premium.  We encourage you to wear them year after year because they will never seem out of date. We mostly produce made to order. And in the unlike possibility that a piece is discarded, you must know that pure wool is 100% biodegradable. It decomposes into the earth acting as a natural fertilizer”

 

Handcrafted 100% merino wool cape showpiece
Handcrafted 100% merino wool cape showpiece

The artisan pieces which are more avant-garde than the mainline are hand knitted by Artisan women from rural regions in Castilla and Leon. By that, Lana Serena also supports the recovery of centennial trades and the empowerment of women. Right now they are working with a group of 5 women who do the knitting the pieces. They decide over their jobs.

Their main line is manufactured  in a family owned workshop near Barcelona. There is a long textile tradition in Catalonia that comes from the nineteenth century.

 

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Why 3D Printing?

Banner Yoster

This is Hila, the woman behind Yoster Jewelry brand

 

Hila, founder of Yoster jewelry
Hila, founder of Yoster jewelry

 

Hila works with two main suppliers, the caster and the plater, and both are small family run businesses. The 3D printing is a growing part of the jewelry industry and this combination of new and old is a necessary part of the development of the craft. With this process you also leave no excess material behind, and it can save a lot of waste in the production process.

We had a talk with Hila about the way she’s been trying to implement 3D printing in her production process early on.

3D printing as production process

 

JF: Hi Hila, nice to have this talk with you! So, we are wondering, how does 3D printing of jewelry work? 
Hila: In the past few years, the jewelry industry has been transformed with the introduction of 3D-printers, which are capable of producing easily-castable, high detail parts. “3D printing jewelry” doesn’t mean directly producing end-use pieces of jewelry. In other words, jewelers don’t 3D print golden rings. Instead, we 3D print highly detailed wax models of the desired rings, which are later used to make molds, like the traditional of the disappearing wax technique.

And all Yoster’s pieces finishes are done by hand, so the evolution of the jewelry is quite interesting. Backwards form tech – to handmade! :)

the Yoster studio
the Yoster studio

 

JF: How did you come up with the idea to use this type of process?
Hila: I studied 3D print during my BA degree in jewelry design. We studied the software for 2 semesters, and in the following semesters we had some projects that we must produce by 3d printing. To be honest I was one of the worst in my class, I am not “a computer person” and this software is very complicated for me, though the benefit of it is amazing! Actually my ‘3D climber earring’ is the result of a class project in my 3th year degree (six years ago) –  and it is the first 3d printing jewelry that I ever did, it was such a success and it goes with me ever since  (it is funny I named it after it- but it is a reminder for when it all started)

 

JF: That’s so cool! How does it affect your collections to use this process? 
Hila: Yoster’s designs are accompanied by a sense of timeless objects that was found in nature which are delicately treated to make fine jewelry. When I start to work on a new model, I start by sculpting with wax, when I get to a point where i see i don’t get the result i wish, not precise enough or i see it is going to be very heavy, or just that I don’t have enough time to develop it, so I understand it should be by 3d printing. before i go to 3d printing i must have a wax model (to gain an appreciation of a form and structure), drawing and images of inspiration reference. So the result of it is by combination all of it. As i mentioned before that working on that software is not easy for me, so I have an amazing engineer digital technology modeler who I work with to help me build my designs. We sit together with the wax and drawing and building it up together.

3D printing development process of the Chain earrings
3D printing development process of the Chain earrings

JF: What is the impact you have when you choose to use this type of process for products? 
Hila: By 3d i have control on everything (weight, dimensions etc..) it allows me to express my creativity and imagination without limits.

I can see the exact result without spending 1gr of materiel. Yes, of course, it happened to me that after I printed I was not satisfied and then I print again, but as I have more and more experience with 3d it happens less.

In addition, manually crafting jewelry molds can be quite expensive, whereas 3D Printing is a quick manufacturing technique that also allows you to easily change the design of the digital model. Working with a 3D printed piece versus a wax piece takes a quarter of the time. It’s not just the time I saved, it is what else I’m able to do with that time that has been the biggest savings.

Finished product! :)
Finished product! :)

Thank you Hila! 

Check out all jewelry from Yoster here!

 

 

“Yoster is named after my parents, Yosi and Ester. In their short lives they’ve taught me the two most important skills for an artist, how to touch and how to believe”

Hila

 

 

 

 

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Why Recycled Plastic?

Banner UND Swimwear

This is Giada and Margherita, the women behind UND Swimwear

 

Giada and Margherita, founders of UND Swimwear
Giada and Margherita, founders of UND Swimwear

We decided to sit down and have a talk with them about the way they do things behind the scenes, and to get to know a little bit more about their raw material, which is made from recycled plastic.

 

JF: Hi Giada and Margherita, thank you for sitting down with us! So, we are wondering, what is recycled Lycra?
Giada&Margherita: The recycled Lycra we chose to craft our swimwear in, is an Italian sustainable techno fabric, made of a regenerated Nylon obtained by recycling plastic waste materials, like fishing nets recovered from our oceans. This incredible fabric, together with being sustainable, has high technical properties, such as 50+ UV protection and a bi-stretch extra comfort feel structure, which provides a perfect “silk glove” fit to our swimsuits.

Old fishnets trapping turtles and larger animals at sea can instead become swimsuits. Photo by Manuel Sardo on Unsplash
Old fishnets trapping turtles and larger animals at sea can instead become swimsuits. Photo by Manuel Sardo on Unsplash


JF: How did you come up with the idea to use this type of material?

Giada&Margherita: We discovered this incredible fabric as we were looking for the most sustainable material we could find to craft our garments. Furthermore, this fabric is not just sustainable because of its composition, it is also a very high quality technical Lycra that will allow the swimsuits to last in time in all their beauty, to be durable. We wanted our collections to be long lasting, not disposable. We are aware that fashion is currently one of the most polluting industries and we don’t want to become part of the problem.

 

Banner UND Swimwear
UND Swimwear

 

JF: How does it affect your collections to choose this kind of raw material?
Giada&Margherita: We are now projecting our fourth collection and each one of them was crafted with the same sustainable Lycra. This is a silver lining as it provides coherence and continuity to our collections, making them timeless and unseasonable. This means that a swimsuit belonging to our ss17 can be worn with one that will belong to ss20 collection. Same aesthetics, same fabric. Fast fashion offers very seasonal and trend related garments that age fast, both for materials and aesthetics. Choosing to stick to this one incredible fabric allows us to avoid this unsustainable mechanism.

 

JF: What is the impact you have when you choose to use this type of source for a product?
Giada&Margherita: In terms of production, the choice of using this kind of recycled material means sustaining the companies -and the people- who work for a much cleaner ocean, for a sustainable way of producing. As they say, by producing that material, “they turn waste problems into fashion solutions”, and we love to actively be part of this philosophy. But the choice of a sustainable fabric is just a part of UND swimwear being sustainable. All our
creative process is focused on building a sustainable brand

UND swimwear planning in their studio
UND swimwear planning in their studio

 

Where workers get paid and are appreciated

Not only is this swimwear made from plastic waste, it is also handcrafted in Italy. The Italian label has a thought through process from start to the product is delivered to customers.

The factory producing the Lycra is ISO 14001 certified, which means that their management system must work towards meeting all UN’s Sustainable Development Goals.

For the production of the swimwear, UND work with Monica and Marco, and their factory which has 30-years of experience in crafting high-end swimwear. The volumes are low, and the growth of the production-volumes slow.

Und work closely with the artisans and every season they fit their models together with the team, to listen to their feedback and keep the dialog close. The artisan lab is located in Rimini, a small town by the sea in Emilia Romagna, the best known Italian spot for production of swimwear.

Sporty swimsuit in green and black. Adjustable halterneck.
Sporty swimsuit in green and black. Adjustable halterneck.

 

Check out all swimwear here!

Dive a little deeper into the topic of regenerated synthetic fibers

People: What about the microplastics!!?
JF: So, this issue with recycled plastic made into new products which are plastic, is a disputed topic. For Just Fashions part, we’ve been reading and following each discussion with our usual nuanced position. We don’t think anything is either or. And we do think than when it comes to swimwear, it is really difficult to use anything else than a stretchy material that can tolerate wear and tear in the sun and salty or chlorinated water. A product that doesn’t sag or use several hours to dry. So we’ve settled with the fact that swimwear in recycled plastic waste is a pretty damn good solution. And of course, quality trumps everything! If it doesn’t last it doesn’t need to exist.

 

Recycled synthetics may not be the worst starting point for high quality wear. According to the MADE-BY Fiber Benchmark, which considers the whole life of a fiber, the water and energy use, and the lifespan, recycled synthetics are at the top of the chain as one of the fibers with lowest footprint, together with recycled wool and cotton. Sadly MADE-BY lost their funding last year and will not carry forward this independent non-profit index.

We also consider sportswear brand Houdini  a label to trust and be guided by. This is a company that we feel closely linked to in philosophy and their Environmental Audits are a study in how to look into and measure every step you take. Read their take on fiber here

Our conclusion? 

For Performance and Leisure Wear we can recommend regenerated synthetic fiber, but from sources and brands that also take care of other parts of their supply chain. We also recommend using a Gruppy Friend bag when you wash your product. To date it is the best way of fetching microplastics from running out into our ocean. The washing machine industry is also catching up, making new filters fetching these tiny particles.

 

 

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Why Harris Tweed?

banner ingrid

Ingrid Pettersson is a young Norwegian designer based in Oslo. She’s got her education from Oslo National Academy of Arts, and caught our eye the moment we saw her first runway show.

Destinction -   Photo: Guro Beitohaugen, Hair and makeup: Marielle Grøneng, Model: Gosia.
Destinction – Earlier work of Ingrid Pettersson
Photo: Guro Beitohaugen,
Hair and makeup: Marielle Grøneng,
Model: Gosia.

 

We sat down and had a short talk with Ingrid about her latest drop, two pieces made in original Harris Tweed, made with that extra personal tweak that only Ingrid knows how to do.

 

JF: Hi Ingrid, we would like you to explain, what kind of raw material is Harris Tweed?
Ingrid:
Harris Tweed is a tweed from yarn which is dyed and spun in the Scottish Outer Hebrides and woven by hand in homes of local crofters. Harris Tweed is a truly ecologically sound textile, with low-impact VOC (volatile organic compound) absorbent production process, non-allergenic and biodegradable.

JF: How did you come up with the idea to use this type of material?
Ingrid: I wanted to use tweed in several of the looks in my new collection. I got help to source and find an environmentally friendly supplier from Just Fashion. Harris tweed is known for its high quality and I was very happy to find out that they also had a sustainable way of making their fabrics.

Ingrid in action in her studio
Ingrid in action in her studio
Harris Tweed trademark
Harris Tweed trademark

JF: So, How does it affect your design to use this type of material?
Ingrid: Sometimes it can be hard to find the right suppliers, the fabric stores in Oslo have very little information about the textiles they are selling. Its always easiest to look online, but still it is very helpful to have skilled people to help sort out what is good and what is “bad”.

 

JF: What is the impact you have when you choose to use this type of source for a product?
Ingrid: Every garment will have a longer life and I know that the material is made in a sustainable way, and hopefully the customers will appreciate this. The price is higher, but I think people are starting to understand that we have to choose differently, spend money on quality and not quantity.

Cutting process by hand in Ingrids studio
Cutting process by hand in Ingrids studio

 

Take a look at the Tweed drop here

Classic blue and purple tweed skirt made in 100% pure wool from Harris Tweed
Classic blue and purple tweed skirt made in 100% pure wool from Harris Tweed

Dive a bit deeper into Harris tweed

Harris Tweed is made of 100% Pure New Wool, dyed, blended, carded, spun, warped, woven, finished, examined and stamped in the Scottish Outer Hebrides by local crofters and artisans.
The weaving process is done in the artisants homes, as the laws outline in the 1993 Harris Tweed Act of Parliament.

At the heart of the Harris Tweed industry lies the relationship between the weavers and the mills. Neither can survive without the other and they are connected through the process of making the tweed. There are also professional wool dyers and blenders, yarn spinners and warpers, cloth finishers and stampers and many more roles in between. They are all part of a slow traditional way of producing.

the Scottish Outer Hebrides where Harris Tweed is made
the Scottish Outer Hebrides where Harris Tweed is made

“The long, barren archipelago on the far north west tip of Europe is home to every dyer, blender, carder, spinner, warper, weaver, finisher and inspector of HARRIS TWEED. No part of the process takes place elsewhere”

Quote Harris Tweed website

 

Craftsmanship

Harris Tweed is a handmade fabric, and the only fabric produced in commercial quantities by traditional methods. It was originally developed because it was ideal for protection against the colder climate in the North of Scotland, but that also means today that it is made for longevity, and guarantees the highest quality,

Before finishing it up, it is washed and beated in soda and soapy water, before it is dried, steamed, pressed and cropped to a perfect, flawless condition. The final process is the examination by the independent Harris Tweed Authority, before application of the famous “Orb Trademark” which is ironed on to the reverse of the fabric as the ultimate seal of approval.

Your product is warm in winter and cool in summer. It resists water and wear and tear with ease, cleans easily and can be repaired with the simplest of tools.

Local sheep from the Scottish Outer Hebrides
Local sheep from the Scottish Outer Hebrides

Animal Welfare

The sheep that gave their wool to this fabric lives on the Scottish mainland. In the early summer, the island communities join together to round up and shear the local sheep. Like the whole process of Harris Tweed, this is also done in a slow manner with care for animals.

The wool fabric is also biodegradable and can be composted in a compost bin with other biodegradable materials a long long time from now in the future when they are worn out.

From the beginning, Harris Tweed was coloured with natural dyes, but this process can no longer be carried out, as the vegetation is now protected. The colouring process is still truly ecologically sound, and done with low-impact VOC (volatile organic compound) absorbent production process, it is non-allergenic and biodegradable.

 

Supporting traditional skills

Harris tweed have been woven for centuries and was originally made by crofters for familial use. The The Orb Trademark was registered in 1910.  Each inch of wool is dyed and spun in an island mill and every yard is handwoven in the home of a Harris Tweed weaver. These skills are passed down from generation to generation of the island’s community with pride. When you buy a product made from Harris Tweed, you support a tradition that needs to be aknowledged and continued.  You are now supporting low-impact handwoven production methods and true artisans.

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Why alpaca?

 

This is Grace, the woman behind the label Graciela Huam.

Founder Graciela Huam
Founder Graciela Huam

She is born in Peru, but her collections are born in ­the Netherlands, and then manufactured in her homeland.

 

We sat down with Grace to have a talk about how her beautiful high quality pieces are made, and we were especially curious about the use of alpaca wool as raw material. For us Norwegians, they are quite dreamy strange and really, really cute animals, so we wanted to know a little bit more about them.

Alpaca wool as raw material

JF: So Grace, what is an Alpaca?
Grace: An Alpaca is an animal native to the Andes, where they’ve been domesticated for around 5000 years. They are in the family of the Camel, but don’t have the humps. In addition to Llamas that are also domesticated, you find two wild types, the vicuña and guanaco, who still continue to roam in wild herds today.

There are again two types of Alpacas, one is fluffy with the softest fleece that makes them like a teddy bear. The other grows silky loose fleece in beautiful locks.

The alpacas are sheared once a year, usually in the spring, before the heat of summer begins, to not make them feel uncomfortable. Since the Alpaca is such an excellent insulator, cold winters don’t bother them as long as they have their fur.

 

JF: What are their features, and what are the qualities that you like best with this animal?
Grace:’ For one, they are recognized globally for their soft and luxurious fiber that is lightweight, durable and has excellent thermal qualities.

 

 

But something that I like and love about Alpacas is their personality. They are smart, adorable, gentle, calm and pretty social. Many times also nervous, curious, shy and quiet.

 

JF: How did you end up with the idea to use alpaca wool?
Grace: I am Peruvian,  and I’ve been working already for more than 5 years in sourcing, and then specializing in alpaca wool and Peruvian cotton. I am pretty passionate about natural resources and my country Peru. I live currently in the Netherlands, now my second home, and my mission is to create a connection between Peru and the Netherlands, bringing together European design with the traditional techniques of knitwear in Peru.

Our choice of raw material is key for the development of this design. With these choices we also support Peru as a supplier and we support the small farmers.

JF: How does it affect your collections and what is the impact you have when you choose this type of source for a product?
Grace: By choosing the way we do, our customers will find collections that are built on the unique combination of superb quality, innovative craftsmanship, sustainable lifestyle and traditional techniques.

 

We’ve already launched 4 collections with this talented team.

The impact we have is our whole ethical supply chain, but the animal in itself is a really good sustainable choice. A normal alpaca produced 2 to 2,4 Kg of fiber each year, enough to make 4 to 5 sweaters.  In comparison, a cashmere goat generally only produces enough wool for 1 sweater a year.

Alpaca fiber is softer, lighter and stronger than cashmere and sheep wool, and it doesn’t feel prickly against the skin. It is also lanolin free, unlike sheep wool, which means that it holds less allergens, bacteria and dust. Also, there are 22 different natural colours, ranging from white, grey and brown to black, which means less dying of yarn.

JF: Thank you for your time Grace! 

 

 

Take a look at Graciela Huams products here

 

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Organic Silk vs Silk

 

What’s the difference between Organic and commercial silk?

First of all, the difference between the two is not that big, but the result of choosing one over the other makes a difference. The process is almost the same, but the scale of which they are produced and what is put into the production is not.

Silk is one of the oldest fibers we know of and has its origin from China, around 2600 BC.  The cultivation of silkworms in order to produce silk is called sericulture. The first step in the production is called “hatching the eggs”. During this stage, silkworms lay eggs in an artificial environment with the  aim of getting them to lay as many eggs as possible. The female produces around 300 tot 400 eggs at the time. The silkworm dies right after laying these eggs. After 10 days, the eggs hatch into larvae (caterpillars), and the feeding period starts.

During the feeding period in commerical silk production the larvae is fed mulberry leaves (results in the finest silk) and grow very fast. They eat around 50.000 times of their initial weight. In approximately 6 weeks, the larvae are 10.000 times heavier than at the time of hatching, and ready to spin a silk cocoon. The silkworm needs around 3 till 8 days to spin a cocoon, thereby producing one kilometer of silk filament.

Silk worm
Silk worm

Organic silk has more or less the same processing as conventional silk here, but no pesticides, insecticides or harsh chemicals have been used to make land or larva grow faster. The silkworms get a more varied diet instead of mulberry leafs alone, and everything is organic.

When the coooon is ready, it is treated with boiling water or hot air and the silk filaments are unwounded again, getting soft by the heat, which is called “reeling the filament”.

In nature, at this point, the silkworm (e.g. chrysalis) would break out of the cocoon and become a moth. However, this would damage the silk fibers, and therefore the chrysalis is killed before the thread is collected from the cocoon.

Wad Silk dress - photo: Tse Kao
Wad Silk dress – photo: Tse Kao

The process in organic silk production and commercial production is more or less the same in the stage where the silkthread is collected. There is still no way of keeping the thread in one piece and make the moth survive.

One cocoon contains only a small amount of silk and around 2500 silkworms are needed in order to produce one pound of raw silk. Silk amounts to only a very small percentage of the total textile fiber market, even less than 0.2%. Organic silk is then again a marginal percentage of this. The production is small and controlled, thus also creates a smaller amount of raw material.

To conclude:

  • Organic silk  still kills the silk worm to get one length of thread. If you want silk where the silk work leaves the cocoon before the thread is collected, you need to look at Peace Silk/Wild silk. Here the fabric has structure and is stiffer than traditional silk.
  • Organic silk is not produced in the same volumes as commercial silk. The process is longer and there are no chemicals used in any step of the production.

    Elsien Gringhuis diagonal blazer in beige silk
    Elsien Gringhuis diagonal Wild silk blazer in beige
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The Story of Hyrv

Hyrv banner

 

Tallin-based jewelry brand, collecting its inspiration from nature’s pure lines and having a contemporary fresh take on jewel crafting.

 

The start

JF started working with Hyrv spring 2018. We met in our common love for simple, elegant and classic design that lives on forever (and is even handed down through generations), and of course in our common denominator; sustainable and well thought through processes.

Since then we’ve seen Hyrv grow and gaining new followers. They are consistent in the way they build their universe, and we couldn’t be more proud to work with designer Kateryna and her team.

 

Design process

All of Hyrvs collections are made in their studio in Harjumaa, Tallin, Estonia. The team uses a combination of handcraft and 3D printing, but also do customization and special customer-collaborations.

The workshop has 3 workers and some part time freelancers when orders are larger. The facility holds a high standard when it comes to both worker and environmental guidelines.

Hyrv only use recycled silver, natural stones and other natural materials in their collections. For polishing or matting silver surface they use walnut shells or other organic fillers. Artisanal methods are implemented in every collection, and they use non-toxic and low energy sources. E.g. the use of 3D printing increase efficiency, use less energy than other methods, and is a significant way of reducing unwanted waste.

Hyrv decided early on to not use any synthetic inserts, packaging or exhibition displays (for storefronts) that could be harmful to the environment. They only use natural and recycled material for their displays and packaging, like the 3D printed wood plates and the recycled cotton and paper bags and boxes. It is both 100% recycled and recyclable.

 

Overview of ass products from Hyrv Antler and Coco collection

 

 


Founder and designer

The driving force behind Hyrv is founder and Creative Director Kateryna Pishon. She was born in Tallinn and got her BA in Jewellery Design from Estonian Academy of Arts. After polishing her skills at Antwerp Koninklijke Academie voor Schone Kunsten (The Royal Academy of Fine Arts Antwerp), she worked in a New York’s jewelry company. This combination of experiences gave her the base she needed to start up Hyrv in 2012. She then felt confident that the time was right to experiment with a variety of ideas, materials, processes and techniques.

 

 

“I design for modern, young people with a varied day. I want to design jewelry pieces that are chic and easy to wear, but will also make you stand out.”

Kateryna Pishon

 

See full collection from Hyrv here

 

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The story of Hekne

Hekne

 

Each HEKNE collection carries the colours of a selected bird. This way the label connects each collection to nature and give themselves restrictions that elevates their universe.

 

 

 

Careful in all they do

HEKNE was established in 2013 by Anja Birgitte Daatland Hekne and Siglinde Maria Lunde, two childhood friends. The fall 2016 collection was their first, which also is a testament to the two women’s planning skills, doing every bit of their production with people and planet in mind. Spring 17 they launched their second collection.

Anja has a BA degree in Fashion Design from Ravensbourne College in London and has studied Marketing Management at CPHbusiness in Copenhagen. Siglinde has studied PR and marketing at BI Norwegian Business School in Oslo.

 

Connected to nature

HEKNE is all about the slow way of producing, and they find their inspiration in the organic harmony of nature. They want to take part in changing the pattern of overconsumption, focusing instead on small classic collections which can, both in quality and cut, last more than one season.

Skagen Coat in dark brown organic Wool
Skagen Coat in dark brown organic Wool

Early fall 17 Hekne updated their universe with two classics, off course built with organic and recycled materials, and every bit produced under organized and good conditions in a small factoriy in Lithuania. The two-piece capsule is inspired by the Mallard

The mallard
The mallard

See full collection from Hekne here

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Mørck – High quality leather

Mørck design

 

Behind the label

Norwegian label Mørck consists of mother and daughter team, Marianne Mørck and Monika Mørck Hauge. Marianne has her background in orthopedics (which is closely related to the body and the individual), and Monika is an educated artist.

 

Mørck design in goatleather
Mørck design in goatleather

Carefully selected

Mørck advocates for natural and traditional materials and wish to promote local businesses as well as ethical and sustainable production. They collaborate with tanneries in different countries and spend a great deal of time finding the leather, where the quality and sustainable choice is evident.

To choose goat, reindeer and for the first time FW17, Norwegian lamb leather, is something that makes logistics an important part of the labels collection planning. The dream would be to do the whole process closer to home, but for now this is impossible. It is a true evidence of the labels sustainable core, that they do not choose the easiest route, but instead make sure each product is made with the right type of leather.

Mørck - photography by Ole Elker
Mørck – photography by Ole Elker

Small concise collections

Mørck combines these ancient material traditions with modern design and solid craftsmanship. Through the acknowledgement of the inherent qualities of natural materials, clothes with durability and patina are created. Leather from salmon and reindeer is by nature a limited resource. There are practical limits for manufacture. Consequently, the collections by Mørck will inevitably be small and exclusive.

Mørck Stitching only use leather from livestock animals that have free range of movement and from farmers treating animals with respect when it comes to protection, breeding and health.

Salmon and reindeer were important factors of survival for the early settlers in the north thousands of years ago. They provided food. They provided clothing. Towards the end of the Stone Age, the goat gradually became important for people’s livelihood. Mørck takes up again these traditions by showing that use of the leather can be luxurious, long lasting and of the highest quality.

 

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Working with Elsien Gringhuis

Elsien Gringhuis knee length dress in off white

The start

Just Fashion started working with Elsien Gringhuis a few years back. With our shared core values it was a great meet. Thanks to Skype we are always able to talk directly with designers far away and get a sense of how they work and think on a personal level. This is really important to us.

From this starting point we have seen Elsien grow, building each stone of her business on the same ground principles and keeping her core. Being featured in Italian and German Vogue last year as a design talent to watch was a great confirmation that Elsien manages what we want to show the world; it is possible to be forward thinking and deliver FASHION while still choosing better production methods and raw materials in the process.

Elsien Grinhuis close up
Elsien Grinhuis close up

 

Building a book

Elsien’s design is not built on collections and seasons. The design is made much more like books, where each collection brings a new chapter, but all parts of the book are always available. Comparing the collections, you can see the similarities in the style and the design, the colour scheme and the cut of the products, and it is all made to build on each other and be mixed and matched. Elsien always use a shape element in each collection. That way each chapter she produces is stringent and saves fabric in the process.

Image: Tse Kao, Elsien Gringhuis Clay Trousers in eco cotton with digital print
Image: Tse Kao, Elsien Gringhuis Clay Trousers in eco cotton with digital print

 

Design process

Elsien’s design principal is completely based on sustainability. Form, function, material and finishing all contribute to designs with a long life span and high quality. Being a sustainable brand is more than using just the best fabrics. All design is built on the No Waste principle, trying to make a result of nearly no waste in the design process. The focus is on highly innovative patterns that reduce the waste to a minimum.

 

High end fabric quality

Elsien Gringhuis works with wool, cotton, silk and other natural materials bought from trusted retailers in Italy and the Netherlands.  The label does their best at finding a balance between being sustainable and being a high-end fashion label. Most fabrics are GOTS, BCI and/or Oekotex certified, and the goal is to get all of them certified. The important thing though, is to keep the fabric quality high, so the design will last a lifetime. All items are produce locally in Elsien’s studio, on demand, not made before you order them.

Elsien Gringhuis wool sweater in grey
Elsien Gringhuis wool sweater in grey

Education and rewards

  • Cum Laude at the academy of visual arts in Arnhem (ArtEZ).
  • Won the Createurope in Berlin, the Mittelmoda in Italy and was nominated for the Frans Molenaar-award.
  • Presented her first collection during the Amsterdam Fashion Week in 2009.
  • Won the Green Fashion Competition in 2011
  • Won the Fair Luxury Award in 2012.

 

 

“A functional and well thought out design makes me very happy. All good things are simple, but there is nothing more difficult than to make a good and simple design.”

– Elsien Gringhuis

 

 

 

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Our designers at Oslo Runway SS17

Beate Godager transparent jacket

We are so proud to announce that two of our designers are taking part in this year’s Oslo Runway. If you are in Oslo, make sure you get yourself a ticket to the show.

 

Beate Godager

Beate Godager was picked by a jury of business insiders to participate in a talent selection showing at the runway 23rd of August.

Beate Godager demin top
Beate Godager demin top

The jury consisted of Charlotte Bik BandlienLasse Fløde, Carmita Carlsson and Torunn Myklebust.

Bik bok fashion award 2016
Bik Bok Runway Award 2016

Hasla

Hasla is showcasing their design in the jewelry showroom at Sentralen in the heart of Oslo 24th of August. You can among other designs look at their new pearl collection launching shortly.

Hasla Ballance pearl collection
Hasla Ballance pearl collection

 

Hasla Ballance pearl collection
Hasla Ballance pearl collection

 

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5 Versions of the suit – (with a good conscience)

"I have always wanted a great suit! With the ones from Kerber, I can mix and match my own feminin/masculine variant. Great blue colour as well"

 

The suit is always an investment. Not only does it work dresses up as an ensemble, but also, it is great to wear as separates, as blazer and pants with casual tops, denim, sweatpants etc. Perfect for a casual cool look.

We’ve collected some people who look both flawless and cool in their suits. Stylists, fashion insiders and creative’s with their own style, mixed up with our eco suggestions from our luxury handmade label Kerber. Masculine or feminine, their suits come in mix-and-match models to choose from, and they last a lifetime.

 

Keep scrolling to see and shop 5 looks that will elevate your wardrobe

 

Mix masculinity and femininity.

Comfy waist, cropped legs and a longer jacket. Feminine and masculine in one, elevates the feeling of effortlessness. Choose a loose singlet or t-shirt underneath to dress up or down. The keyword is loose.

 

Our feminine/masculine (conscious) suggestion:

Kerber Comfy Pants,    (1.997 NOK (no added expences)  Norway /€168 rest of the world)
Kerber Business Jacket   (2.979 NOK (no added expences) Norway, €250 rest of the world)

 

Elevate length with loose legs.

You don’t need to wear a traditional colour to look chick.

 

Our loose leg suggestion:

 

Fatal Pants in Blue,    (2.099 NOK Norway / €177 rest of the world)
Business Jacket in Blue,   (2.979 NOK Norway / €250 rest of the world)

 

Never be afraid to use your femininity.

Something that always works is the feminine black suit. With narrow, cropped legs and a jacket that elevate the waist.

Our feminine ensamble suggestion:

Disco Pants,   (1.971 NOK Norway / €165 rest of the world)
Stall Jacket,   (3.004 NOK Norway / €252 rest of the world)

 

Embrace the slouchy masculine laidback trousers.

Works so well with brogues or sneakers.

 

Our laidback slouchy pants suggestion:

AW15_Flatter_pants_wool_black_one_strap_v_top_forest_green_473_F_Just-Fshion kopi

Flatter Pants, (on request here)

 

Try the white shirt with high-waisted pants.

That’s enough. Style a feminine shirt with a high waisted loose pair of pants.

Our shirt + pants combo suggestion:

 

AW15_Urban_pants_polyester_black_uni_form_shirt_off_white_391_F_Just-Fshion

Urban Pants : (2.106 NOK Norway / €176 rest of the world)
Uni Form Shirt: (1.903 NOK Norway / €159 rest of the world)

 

Get inspired and choose better when you can!

Hugs from the Just Fashion Team

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In the studio.

From Hasla's workshop in Valle in Setesdal

Here you se the making of one ring. It is molded into a form an then goes through many stages before it becomes the ring you get when you order.

When the whole process is seen like this, in one, you kind of get the picture of how long it takes. It is also a great way to appreciate the fact that is can still be made like this, slowly with craftsmen and women, getting their pay.

Go to all Hasla products>

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To make it all go in a circle.

Elisabeth and Victoria Lejonhjarta with JohannaN necklace and ring

 

This is a story about Just Fashion, and a strong woman we have gotten to know during the growth of our site. Johanna and her jewelry label JohannaN, was the fifth label to come onboard Just Fashion. We want you to know what she is up to!

Production in Bangkok

Johanna produce at two production sites in Bangkok, and they have been with her all the way from the start in 2009.

In the workshop of Cha and Joy
In the workshop of Cha and Joy

Family Workshops

The metal workshops, she knows in and out, and they have grown with her. Tom and Boom are husband and wife-team. They have a small workshop in the first floor of their house in the middle of Bangkok. Tom is sawing all the pieces and Boom is managing their orders, checks the quality, and puts on chains before dispatch to Sweden.

Tom and Boom in their Workshop with their daughter
Tom and Boom in their Workshop with their daughter

They are setting their own price on their work and that’s what Johanna pay them – done deal. Johanna can now ensure them full time work – which I bet feels great!

Since Johanna has been growing a lot the last years, she now also works with a second and third family workshop, Joi and his wife Nok, and Cha and his wife Joi.

In addition she also works closely with Boy, her creative collaborator in Bangkok and he communicate with all teams and takes care of the logistics.

Watch this short film showing the handsawing in the workshop

 

Family Factory

The bigger factory that does the casting is family owned with around 60 workers. The last visit to this factory was in February 2014. This factory is also located in Bangkok, and will be a focus in January when Johanna is going back to Thailand.

 

The raw material

There are large deposits of zinc and copper in Thailand. These metals are combined to form brass, which is a traditional material, used in the Buddha figures and in many religious ornaments and sculptures.

johanna n This is Home adjustable bracelet, seen from abve
johannaN This is Home adjustable bracelet, seen from above

This tradition means that there are people with knowledge about the old way of doing the sawing and casting process that can be given work.  Over time, generations of creative artisans built a tradition of craftsmanship around brass – a craft tradition that today only exists in a few places in the world (Abareness also uses these skills in their jewelry workshop in Nepal)

 

johanna n umeå ring with beetle, seen from front
JohannaN umeå ring with beetle, seen from front

It’s been a pain in the ass to try to track the raw material. With gold and silver, there are a lot happening in the world in regards to sourcing, but with brass, the doors are still closed and there is no tradition for these kinds of investigations. One believes that around 70 % of all brass around is already recycled, but we would of course like to know where OUR (our designers) brass is from. This is an ongoing process, if you are a brass wiz and want to share, let us know!! 

 

Can a business have a personal moral?

Yes, we do believe they can!

There are so many people who are skeptical to the concept of ethical fashion. It is such a wide term, and also difficult to grasp and to see something else than a trend in it. Well, it is in these meetings with our designers, by knowing them, that all doubt about their intentions is washed away. With JohannaN, I have been sure from the start.

Full action in the workshop
Full action in the workshop

She has walked the hardest way, to make her brand sustainable, and now she has come full circle in so many ways. The things that are still difficult to change are really difficult to change!!! Its complicated, sitting in Sweden, trying to get access to the details around the production, not because things are secret, but because there are no tradition for these kinds of investigations in Thailand.

To manage to make a lasting change, it is essential for our designers and us to understand the culture in the country in which we operate. To make room for dialog that can stretch over time, so there are no misunderstandings.

Elisabeth and Victoria Lejonhjarta with JohannaN necklace and ring
Two beautiful up and coming fans, Elisabeth and Victoria Lejonhjarta with JohannaN necklace and ring

 

It is about knowing peoples cultural habits, and making them understand that you want to get under their skin, working WITH them, not having hidden agendas and papers with small writing on them. And this goes both ways.

 

JohannaN's second hand system. You can borrow, excange and deliver back what you dont use
JohannaN’s second hand system. You can borrow, excange and deliver back what you dont use

The skepticism is often grounded in fear of prices being forced down, or fair of losing the order completely, or that somebody will force changes on them that makes the production difficult. They can be scared that questions are about taking something away from them, like they may have experienced before.

 

a form from the casting process of the jewelry
form from the casting process of the jewelry

In January, Johanna is going back to Thailand to visit the workshop and the factory. We are going to be with her on her journey through films, stories and pictures. The thing with great designers with good intentions is that it never stops. It’s not about either or, it is about the journey and the choices one makes along the way.

Designer Johanna N herself
Designer JohannaN

 

And remember, , if you buy your JohannaN products at Just Fashion, you support both of us in our work towards a sustainable future!

Marte & Just Fashion

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Conscious inspiration

Swedish Stockings captued by people

From time to time, we share your pictures. Nothing makes us more happy than to see our designers pieces in use, on conscious people, out there in the world. Tag your picture with #myjustfashionstory if you want it to ne easier for us to find you:)

 

ABARENESS

 

DUTCH BASICS

SKALL STUDIO

 

“People need clothes that are cool AND ethical.
People need to know that there are designers with a conscience out there.
People need to learn how to value and keep their clothes.
It all starts with transparancy”

Just Fashion

 

SWEDISH STOCKINGS

 

 

“We have the power in each and every purchase we do. By bying clothes from designers who really work the right way, you will give the world a bump in a better direction. Quality beats quantity any day! Products are so much more than products”

Just Fashion

KERBER

SWEDISH STOCKINGS

 

JOHANNA N

 

BLACK RAT

Creds to @jacob.cr2 • #darkhair #piercings #creds #verticallabret #blackrat

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DUTCH BASICS

SWEDISH STOCKINGS

In love with my new tights #swedishstockings #premiumhosiery

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NO SLEEP UNTIL JUNE

No sleep until june #nosleepuntiljune

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DUTCH BASICS

NO SLEEP UNTIL JUNE

 

ABARENESS

❤️ from me to all of you! @abarenessfashion #sponset 📷: @fotoesben

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Qualities of Porcelain

Dutch Basics classic eco jewelry

 

Origin

  • China was the birthplace of porcelain making, and it’s been found in the shape that we know today, as early as the 206 BC (the Han Dynasty).
  • Marco Polo was one of the first Europeans to learn about porcelain, but it didn’t enter the European marked until around 1517.
  • In these ancient times, it was very expensive and only used by the rich and famous.
Dutch Basics adjustable porcelain ring with one white and one black porcelain stone
Dutch Basics adjustable porcelain ring with one white and one black porcelain stone

 

Why porcelain?

 

Natural ancient process

Porcelain is a ceramic material, made by heating materials in a kiln to temperatures between 1,200 and 1,400 °C. The end result is always a surprise, since the colour constantly changes during the process. Kaolin is the primary material from which porcelain is made, but also clay minerals normally account for a small proportion of the whole.

Dutch Basics Double drop earrings in porcelain
Dutch Basics Double drop earrings in porcelain

Incredibly strong

Porcelain is a strong material and will last a long time! You can find proof of that in ancient ruins in the Middle East, and also in the fact that is is still used in making of teeth. The toughness, strength and translucency comes mainly from vitrification at the high temperatures it goes through.

Longevity

Porcelain conserve its colour and characteristics for a long time. Words that describe it is: hard, tough, completely vitrified, whiteness, translucency, resonance. and a high resistance to chemical attack and thermal shock.

 

The Porcelain collection

Dutch Basics was inspired by China and the far East, and wanted to merge this with its own classic simplicity. The collection was developed in collaboration with Chantal Lensink and Gaby van Deutekom. I is also done in collaboration with a small Dutch workshop, where people with disadvantages get a chance to work in their own pace. The silver and gold pieces are made in Dutch Basics permanent jewelry workshop in Portugal.

 

Watch Dutch Basics making of the collection

See the products in store.

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Women Supporting Women

Marielle Kerber and Thuy in the factory in Vietnam, supporting women through good working conditions and by involving the craftswomen in the designing process

“Despite great strides made by the international women’s rights movement over many years, women and girls around the world are still married as children or trafficked into forced labor and sex slavery. They are refused access to education and political participation, and some are trapped in conflicts where rape is perpetrated as a weapon of war. Around the world, deaths related to pregnancy and childbirth are needlessly high, and women are prevented from making deeply personal choices in their private lives”

Human Rights Watch

 

The Gender Gap

At Just Fashion we fight for gender and race-equality. We believe that everybody should have equal rights to make the same choices in their lives, which is not nearly the case today.

Based in Norway, Just Fashion are one of the lucky ones, at 3rd place in the Global Gender Gap Report for 2014, only beaten by Iceland and Finland.

It’s much worse for countries further down on the scale, like Nepal on 112th place, and all the way down to Yemen, at 154th place, the last one.

From the factory outside of Kathmandu in Nepal, where a/bareness know that their workers have good pay and a say in things
From the factory outside of Kathmandu in Nepal, where a/bareness know that their workers have good pay and a say in things

 

Supporting women through your fashion buys

Several designers at Just Fashion are working with women in countries further down on this list, and they make sure that

  • their factories and workshops strengthen women’s rights
  • giving not only minimum wage but also living wage
  • making sure that they have good working conditions and that the women are heard

 

From the project a/abareness did in a village in Nepal where women got to work from their homes
From the project a/abareness did in a village in Nepal where women got to work from their homes

Outside Kathmandu in Nepal our designers Abareness have taken part in a project where women, because of their caste, cannot leave their village. By giving them the opportunity to work from home, their economy and status is strengthened. These products are now unfortunately sold out, but we are hoping there are new projects to come.

Dark statistics

 

From Kerbers factory in Vietnam. Thuy working on silk products, a tricky material which need sklls to be done right
From Kerbers factory in Vietnam. Thuy working on silk products, a tricky material which need sklls to be done right

 

Just Fashion designers supporting women

By supporting designers who make sure that women get paid, not only minimum, but also a living wage, you can take part in slowly changing a mentality in countries where women rarely get a say. And in other countries, like Germany, Norway and the Netherlands, you will give a share to women in professions that are not considered prestigious or important.
Here are the designers you should buy from at Just Fashion to make sure you support women in some way.

Abareness

Makes sure that the women in the bigger knitting factory have good working conditions and living wage pay. In addition, Abareness is actively supporting educational projects that doesn’t discriminate between girls and boys, through their #coolkidsneedscleanwater project.

 

#Coolkidsneedcleanwater, a/abareness project in schools in Kathmandu
#Coolkidsneedcleanwater, a/abareness project in schools in Kathmandu

Anne Gorke

Anne Gorke modelling her Parrot Dress
Anne Gorke modelling her Parrot Dress

Are supports independent craftswomen in and around Weimar in Germany.

Apollonius

Is a woman; designer Emma does all the work herself in her studio in Oslo.

Elsien Gringhuis

Supports independent craftswomen in Netherlands. In addition, she only use women of all ages, and with focus on their thoughts, ambitions and aspirations in her lookbook campaigns, and by doing so, shows another side of fashion than the too young clothing hanger-model.

 

Liesbeth runs Fashion council Netherland and is modelling an outfit in Elsiens Gringhuis last lookbook
Liesbeth runs Fashion council Netherland and is modelling an outfit in Elsiens Gringhuis last lookbook
IIIF leather bag made by an independent female craftswoman
IIIF leather bag made by an independent female craftswoman

Idamari

Does all the work herself, in her studio in Berlin, and she is obviously a woman.

IIIF

Works with one craftswomen on Iceland for their leather bag-collection.

Kerber

Works with craftswomen (and men) in Hoi an in Vietnam. They get living wage and are encouraged in developing their skills, also taking part in the design process.

Retusj

Karen Pederstad is the designer behind Retusj, also made by hand by the designers herself in her studio in Oslo.

Just Fashion

Almost everybody involved in Just Fashion are women , and our founder is a woman. By supporting us, you also support our fight to find more designers who believe in gender and race-equality, regardless of their gender.

Just Fashion founder Marte DJupesland
Just Fashion founder Marte DJupesland

Learn more about gender equality

This video from World Economic Forum tells a short version of why the report about gender equality is important

Read and look at key statistics from the Gender Gap Report here, or download the total report.

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Behind our products

The designers at Just Fashion can tell you a lot of stories, still their products also speek for themselves.  Together we work towards full control and transparency in every aspect of the journey our products take. Here are some of them, take a look.

 

designer Anne Gorke
Designer Anne Gorke
Designer Cathrine Rosseland
The designer Cathrine Rosseland

 

 

 

 

Designer Marielle on her bicycle in Han Noi
Designer Marielle on her bicycle in Han Noi

 

Designers Linn and Nadja
Designer Linn and Nadja

 

Designer Elsien Gringhuis
Designer Elsien Gringhuis

 

Doris, the founder of Dutch Basics
Doris, the founder of Dutch Basics

 

Designer behind Apollonius Clothing Emma Linjedahl with her dog Kodac
Designer behind Apollonius Clothing Emma Linjedahl with her dog Kodac